Mythbuster: France has 258 varieties of cheese

'How do you govern a country that has 258 types of cheese?' 

This is a famous quote attributed to Charles de Gaulle, barked in frustration at the seeming impossibility to keep the French population, deeply divided on numerous political lines, content happy. 

Many have since questioned if this many - or few - cheeses exist in France. 

Before answering that question, however, the quote has to be looked at itself.

There is debate about the exact number General de Gaulle used when uttering the line, with some quotes saying he said 246 types, other times reportedly 600, or even more. 

Unfortunately, no exact record of the quote exists, although it has been repeated enough and entered French folklore that it is most likely true, albeit probably modified.

Even if allegorical, it is a fine illustration of the complexity of la France profonde and the attachment people have with their local cheeses.

 Read more: Know your cheeses and their seasons: which to eat in France in September

How many cheeses do exist? 

This lack of clarity on the quote however answers the question fairly succinctly - the number of cheeses in France is not 258, or 246, or 600. 

In fact, France has only 46 types of AOP cheese (products which are strictly regulated and can only be made in a certain area in a certain way), and nine given IGP status.

This is however still the highest number of protected cheeses from any single nation worldwide.

 Read more: What are IGP/AOC/AOP labels on French products?

Outside of these, there are more than 1,200 other cheeses for sale in France across various brands, making up more than 40 other different 'types' of cheese, according  to a 2024 report by dairy federation Cniel (Centre National Interprofessionnel de l'Economie Laitière).

Regardless of the exact amount, it does not blur the sense of identity people take from local cheese: made by local people, using local breeds and using skills passed down through generations. 

Cheese helps create and maintain a national French identity but they also pinpoint local differences or terroir, no matter how many types there are.

Some cheeses at risk

Despite the rise in the number of cheeses since de Gaulle spoke in 1962, partly due to the increased industrialization in the industry, cheeses are still disappearing from market; and more than 50 have gone in the last 30 years.

The Association Fromages de Terroirs says it is due to “galloping standardisation” with just 7% of all cheeses still made with raw lait cru and nearly half of all AOC cheeses made with pasteurised milk. 

It decries a loss of taste and fears industrial cheeses will take over as they use pasteurised milk and are cheaper.

An example of the risks faced can be found with the extremely famous Camembert cheese.

Until recently, only unpasteurised milk was allowed in ‘Camembert de Normandie AOP’ but dairy giants’ temporarily got round this by labelling their pasteurised version ‘Made in Normandy’.

Earlier this year, French courts ruled they could no longer use the 'Made in Normandy' label, but it required several years of legal battles by smaller producers.

 Read more: Small French producers win ‘battle of Camembert’ on Normandy origins