Château de Monte-Cristo: Alexandre Dumas’ ‘paradise on earth’ in France

The author regularly entertained friends at the château in Yvelines near Paris

Dumas' Château de Monte-Cristo
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The most recent film adaptation of Alexandre Dumas' iconic adventure, The Count of Monte Cristo, was released last year to critical acclaim, despite running for nearly three hours. 

The plot is well known; the protagonist, Edmond Dantès, is betrayed by men he trusts. As a result, he is imprisoned for life in the Château d'If off the coast of Marseille. 

He has a horrible time, but is taught everything he needs to know by a fellow prisoner called Abbé Faria. Eventually, he inherits a fortune and pulls off a daring plot to escape from prison. 

He goes back into society, disguised as the mysterious Count of Monte Cristo and exacts bloody revenge on those who betrayed and framed him.

The book came on the heels of his smash hit, The Three Musketeers, and was such a success that the author commissioned Hippolyte Durant to build him his own personal ‘paradise on earth’ just outside Paris, in Le Port-Marly (Yvelines). 

He called it the Château de Monte-Cristo. The concept was to have some peace and quiet in which to write more hit books.

Construction took three years (1844-1847) and cost 500,000 francs. 

Dumas regularly entertained lady friends at the château, and gave lavish parties and sumptuous dinners, which he often cooked himself. 

The door was always open to visitors. More than one guest stayed long-term, taking advantage of the author's legendary generosity. 

The place was also home to numerous animals – dogs, cats, parrots and birds of prey, as well as monkeys. 

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How did Dumas lose his money?

In 1848, short of cash, Dumas sold it for 31,000 francs, although he did not finally move out until 1851, when he took refuge in Belgium. 

"Dumas lived here for just five years," says the site's director, Frédérique Lurol. "He went broke quite fast, buying presents and investing in theatre and travelling. And the Revolution dented his bank account, too. So he had to sell. 

"But traces of his ownership are everywhere. His initials can be seen in various places, this project was very close to his heart. It was in his image, extravagant and huge."

The Château d'If, Alexandre Dumas' study in the grounds of the Château de Monte Cristo.

Once sold, the château was inhabited by private owners, one after another, until 1972 when it was rented out to the Ecole Anglaise as a boarding school. 

"There is some furniture in some of the rooms, but not a lot,” said Ms Lurol. 

“Dumas sold his furniture and belongings with the chateau. There are a few chairs and a desk, however. But really, it is a large house, rather than a real château."

Just a stone's throw from the front door is a second building which Dumas mischievously baptised 'Le Château d'If' because he used it as a writing retreat. The grounds also contain a modern building used as a ticket office and boutique. 

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What is at the Château de Monte-Cristo?

The three hectares of garden are designed in the English style, to look as though every stunning vista is an accident of nature. There are fountains and hidden walkways, as well as various sculptures.

The interior of the chateau

Ms Lurol added: "Since the film was released, we have received a lot more visitors. We normally get around 30,000 a year, but last year we received more than 50,000 visitors, which is unprecedented. 

"It will probably calm down again this summer. But I would advise people to try and visit during the week, rather than at the weekend if possible."

The property is owned and managed by a Syndicate of three local towns; Marly le Roi, le Port Marly and le Pecq. 

They work in partnership with an association, the Societé des Amis d'Alexandre Dumas.

 "Like any other old building, it requires a lot of maintenance, but it was extensively renovated in 2016, so is in very good condition," said Ms Lurol

The château is only open at weekends in the winter, but from March onwards is open six days a week. 

"We organise a theatrical presentation on the last Sunday of every month, as well as a full programme of exhibitions and events, including escape games." 

It is advised to check the website before visiting.