On little peninsula west of Saint-Malo is a little Breton gem for lovers of seaside walks, abbeys, birds and golden sands just off the traditional tourist trail.
Saint-Jacut-de-la-Mer is 22km north-west of Dinan in Côtes-d'Armor, Brittany.
This charming old fishing village has a modest 910 residents, but a truly impressive eleven beaches – not bad for a place that is officially listed as being under three square kilometres.
Golden sand and clear water
The little peninsula barely registers when you glance at a map, but if you tour the coast of Côtes-d’Armor, it is certainly worth a detour, particularly if you enjoy coastal walks, sightseeing and island hopping.
As the peninsula is slightly off the usual tourist trail, its eleven different beaches are rarely busy, offering expanses of golden sand and clear waters that invite you to paddle.
To the east is the Baie de Lancieux, while on the west, the beaches open onto the Baie de l’Arguenon.
Depending on the time of day, you can always find a spot of shade from which to enjoy the spectacle of the ever-shifting waves, and if you linger long enough, you will be mesmerised by the sunset.
If you are not really a sun worshipper, there is also a watersports centre here (open from March to November), and you can choose from the more sheltered Rougeret Beach to the more exposed spots in Baie de Beaussais.
With this many beaches on offer, it is the perfect opportunity to try stand-up paddle boards, kayaks or kitesurfing, or try your hand with a catamaran, surfboard or sailing dinghy.
For those who think that feels too energetic, you can simply explore the coastal path, which offers incredible views over picturesque fishing ports such as Houle Causseul, the bobbing boats moored on the water, and the islands in the distance.
Head to Pointe du Chevet and you can even walk to the Ebihens Archipelago, provided you time it right for the low tide, not only for getting across but to be sure you can get back!
When the tide is out, take a 30-minute walk across the sea bed and over to the archipelago to enjoy the breathtaking natural landscapes.
Historical treasures
The main island is privately owned, so visitors are asked to follow the main path, which grants you some amazing views of the coastline and also leads to the 18-metre Vauban Tower, dating from 1697.
Surrounded by a handful of old houses, this tower was originally part of the strategic defence protecting nearby Saint-Malo and at one time was used as a farm.
The name Ebihens comes from the Breton phrase Enez Bihan, meaning small island. It is also an ornithological reserve, so birdspotters will be in their element here.
Once back on the mainland, be sure to visit the Benedictine Abbey, which was founded in the 4th Century and restored in 1875.
Now a centre for workshops, retreats and conferences, the abbey has 100 bedrooms that are rented out in summer, to raise money for supporting local education.
Although many people feel that they are not supposed to enter, visitors are indeed welcome to come and experience the tranquil setting.
The town itself is also welcoming, and its residents, known as Jaguens, used to make their living from fishing mackerel and skate.
Explore the winding streets lined with traditional granite homes to feel transported back in time, especially if you visit the Maison du Pêcheur, a free visitor centre full of displays that explain the village’s fishing history.
Before you leave, be sure to visit the remains of Château de Guildo, which dates back to the 1200s and was at its height of splendour in the 1400s, welcoming the French king’s brother and other nobles.
Free to visit, this is a wonderful site suffused with history and well worth exploring.
Clearly, although Saint-Jacut-de-la-Mer is most famous for its wealth of beaches, this is a small village with plenty of surprises in store, perfect for a day trip.
