5 things they don’t tell you about... Christmas in France

La messe de minuit

Even though only around two million people out of a total population of 68 million go to church regularly, it is perfectly acceptable to bowl up to midnight mass acting like you last attended mass yesterday. 

You get extra points if you are accompanied by well-behaved children who smile nicely at the priest. Amen!

Les chants de Noël

Needless to say, France has a good repertoire of Christmas carols including French lyrics to Silent Night. 

But the classic, always bellowed out with gusto at the end of midnight mass, is Il est né le Devin Enfant – just in case you nodded off and missed the big event. Chantons tous! 

La famille

Christmas is definitely a time for gathering the family together and, if required, humouring venerable elders. 

People who are resolute vegetarians all year round find themselves obediently tucking into a roast prepared in the traditional style (lots of butter and wine) by Mamie (Grandma) and La Tantine (Auntie). Ca fait du bien!

Le Réveillon de Noël 

This gargantuan feast includes oysters, foie gras, smoked salmon, roast meat (often, but not always, turkey), cheese, salad and a chocolate log called a bûche de Noël. It often lasts all night, which is why midnight mass is nowadays often celebrated in the early evening. Christmas Day is used for sleeping it off.

Les cadeaux

Between adults, gifts are often exchanged at midnight during the Réveillon. Children however, usually receive them on Christmas Day. Les gosses don't get Christmas stockings, because St Nicholas distributes chocolate in schools on December 6 – although he used to fill shoes left out in the fireplace or on the windowsill. Joyeux Noël!