Vegetable base for new fake leather invented by French scientist

A French scientist has invented a new way of making artificial leather from vegetable matter, which avoids using plastics.

At the moment the artificial leather, called Phyli, is made in rolls which are 15cm wide, but there are plans to produce 60cm rolls by 2026. It could lead to many new potential uses, including for handbags. 

Dr Fanny Deléage, a materials scientist, told The Connexion she developed the idea after a crisis of conscience in 2016 about animal suffering and her desire for a greener future.

“At the time I was working mainly in the food industry and tried to innovate there, but it was very difficult,” she said.

“Then I thought that there must be an alternative to leather which is better than oil-based plastic artificial leathers and I started working with plant proteins.

“It took time but eventually my colleague and I were able to form a company to produce our product at the end of last year. Since then demand has exploded.”

Phyli is more expensive than oil-based artificial leather but significantly cheaper than real leather. Most people are unable to tell the difference. 

Clients are mainly larger companies who use it to make small items such as wallets and watch straps.

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What is vegetable leather made of?

The manufacturing process is a closely guarded secret, but Dr Deléage said the main material comes from vegetable waste left from field crops.

Proteins are extracted and a vegetable collagen, the stretchy substance found in skins, used to make the artificial leather.

Patents were registered in 2022 covering the mixture of proteins, natural tannins and natural additives.

A variety of finishes and colours are currently possible, except for suede.

“People do not realise that leather is the textile with the highest emissions of CO₂ during its manufacture, with a metre squared responsible for between 40kg and 48kg of CO₂,” she said.

“It also needs 5kg of raw skins to make 1kg of usable leather, (as well as) 2.5kg of chemicals and 60 litres of water.

“Our process, which does not use any oil-based plastics and only natural ingredients, drastically cuts CO₂ and other pollution.

“In the medium term, I’m sure we’ll be able to partner with some of the main luxury brands to help them in their environmental transition.”

Her company, La Tannerie Végétale, is based near Lyon. She believes rolls of 150cm width will be possible in future so it can be used for furniture and car seats.

“Leather manufacturers can use the same machines for Phyli, with just minor adjustments. It also has benefits over other leather, such as allowing perspiration to evaporate, so new forms of clothing are possible.”

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